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Thursday, May 27, 2010

Tailored to fit



The only man who behaves sensibly is my tailor; he takes measurements anew every time he sees me, while all the rest go on with their old measurements and expect me to fit them. George Bernard Shaw


Wearing a J. Peterman’s pale blue Sutton-Place-Dress is supposedly an outward expression of a woman’s regal behavior. “The clean lines. The crisp angles. The flowing steps. They bespeak a person who can run a neuroscience group or chair the library fund-raising committee.” To indicate is one meaning of to bespeak. According to the OED, the prefix be- , however, originally meant "about" as in behave (the ways one has about oneself). Thus, to bespeak something can also mean to talk about it, discuss it.
Its past participle, bespoke (=spoken about) is often used as an adjective, meaning custom made. Common in British English, it is recently used more frequently in the U.S. as well. There are BESPOKE CHOCOLATES and Bespoke Cycles. Silversea Cruiseline promises "Bespoke adventures off the beaten path," and visiting Paris, one should "[mill] about the 'Detox Corner' — the boutique — marveling at the bespoke all-natural products on sale" ("Going underground in a private Paris" NYT 3/28). If something is custom made, it is necessary for customer and manufacturer to have discussed the product's details and to have spoken about what is possible at which price. Hence a boutique where one can browse through bespoke products is a paradox. What is custom made cannot be off the shelf.
Even though a dress off the shelf may bespeak someone’s sophistication, a truly bespoke suit surely trumps it. Of course, it will cost more money as well as more time because "A client being fitted for a bespoke suit would have three or four fittings. We would take 20 to 25 direct measurements and we would look at their figuration" - unless the tailor is up to something else:
Chandler: Your tailor is a very bad man.
Joey: Frankie? What're you talking about?
Chandler: He took advantage of me.
Joey: No way! I've been going to that guy for 12 years.
Chandler: He said he was going to do my inseam and ran his hand up my leg, and then there was definite - cupping.
Joey: That's how they do pants. First they go up one side, they move it over, they go up the other side, they move it back, and then they do the rear. Isn't that how they measure pants?

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